bunniesinneed.net http://bunniesinneed.net Mon, 08 Apr 2013 19:02:50 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 Forbidden Foods for Rats http://bunniesinneed.net/forbidden-foods-for-rats/ http://bunniesinneed.net/forbidden-foods-for-rats/#comments Wed, 15 Aug 2012 02:35:39 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1902 Generally, if you would eat a food, you can give it to your rats. Here are some exceptions and notables:

raw dry beans or peanuts—contains antinutrients that destroy vitamin A and enzymes needed to digest protein and starches, and causes red blood cells to clump.  Roasted peanuts are fine.

raw sweet potato—contains compounds that form cyanide in the stomach.  Canned sweet potato is cooked and is fine.

green bananas—inhibits starch-digesting enzymes

green potato skin and eyes—contain solanine, a toxin

wild insects—can carry internal parasites and diseases

raw bulk tofu—can contain bacteria; packaged raw tofu is safe

orange juice—forbidden for male rats only, d-limonene in the skin oil, which gets into the orange juice during squeezing, can cause kidney damage and kidney cancer due to a protein that only male rats have in their kidneys.  Pieces of the orange fruit are okay if you wash the orange-skin oil off of it after peeling it.

cabonated drinks- NEVER- rats can’t ‘burp’. this can lead to extreme pain and even medical issues.

Foods to Feed with Caution

Dried corn can contain high levels of fungal contaminates which has been shown to cause liver cancer in rats. Corn also contains high levels of both nitrates and amines. These two compounds can combine in the stomach to form nitrosamines which are carcinogenic. Other foods high in nitrates include beets, celery, eggplant, lettuce, cucumber, radishes, spinach, collards and turnip greens. Therefore, I suggest you limit the amount of these foods in your rat’s diet.

Mold Warning

Spoiled or moldy food can contain deadly toxins. Never give nuts, grains, vegies or other food that looks or smells odd or spoiled. Don’t buy too much food ahead. Molds can grow even in sealed plastic bags. When cutting up veggies, cut off the dried part that has been exposed from previous cutting and throw it away. If you see mold growing on a food, throw the whole thing away. Do not attempt to cut away the moldy section. Invisible mold filaments penetrate deep into the food.

 

Pesticides on Produce

The Environmental Working Group compiled the following information from FDA and EPA data.

On average, rinsing with water will remove about one third of surface pesticides. Using soap, scrubbing, or peeling will further reduce the pesticide levels. Many pesticides, however, are absorbed by the plant or penetrate the surface of the fruit or vegetable. Where peeling is feasible, such as with apples and peaches, you end up throwing out some of the nutrients with the peel (although rats tend not to eat the peel anyway.)

In the US, the produce with the most and most toxic pesticides are: strawberries, bell peppers, spinach, cherries, peaches, cantaloupe grown in Mexico, celery, apples, apricots, green beans, grapes grown in Chile, and cucumbers.

To avoid pesticides, it’s a good idea to avoid these commercially grown foods, or at least limit them in your rat’s (and your) diet. Buy organic versions instead. To avoid foreign cantaloupe and grapes, only buy these items from May-December when they are in season here in the US.

If you are feeding your rats my homemade rat diet, in the winter and spring buy watermelon instead of cantaloupe, or give another type of fruit, and give raisins instead of grapes.

The produce with the least pesticides are: avocados, corn, onions, sweet potatoes, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, grapes grown in the US, bananas, plums, green onions, watermelon, and broccoli.

Toxic Water

One source of toxins that’s often overlooked is tap water. If your tap water is fluorinated, DO NOT give it to your rats! Fluorine can cause brain damage in rats.  Instead give them bottled water, but investigate the quality of the brand you choose. Some bottled waters are nothing more than tap water and some contain fluoride!  Chlorine is also toxic (there is evidence that chlorinated water raises the risk of miscarriage in women in the first trimester!) If your tap water is chlorinated, buy a filter that removes chlorine (such as Britta or Pur) and only give your rats filtered water.

Even if your tap water comes from a well, lead leaches into the water from some pipes and all faucets. To reduce the amount of lead, run the water for a while, preferable until it becomes cold, which means it’s coming straight from the well, before filling your rats’ water bottles. Never use hot water from the tap for cooking or drinking because hot water contains more lead.

It’s a good idea to clean the water bottle out with a bottle brush every few days. Use a tiny brush or cotton swab to clean the sipper tube. You should also keep track of the level in the bottle so you can make sure your rats are getting water. Sometimes, the ball bearing in the sipper tube gets stuck and blocks the flow of water. I like glass water bottles better than plastic ones because some plastics can leach into the water. Hard plastic bottles are better than soft ones.

Low Sodium Diet

For certain health problems, notably congestive heart failure, a low sodium diet will be beneficial. The best low sodium diet is rat blocks. Fresh fruits and vegies are okay, but don’t give any canned foods. Check the label on frozen foods and only use those that do not list salt as an ingredient. Don’t give any dairy products, baked goods, processed cereals or foods, or salted foods.  Give distilled water only.

Foods with Some Special Properties

These foods help to prevent strokes! Recommended for older rats or those with a family history of strokes: celery, prunes, parsley, oranges (no orange juice for males).

These foods have some antibiotic properties: banana, prunes/plums, garlic, tea, eggplant, raspberries, onion, mustard.

These foods may have some anti-virus properties: cranberries, prunes/plums, strawberries, onion.

These foods are good for arthritis: clove, dates, ginger, garlic.

The above information is taken from ratfanclub.org/diet with permission

]]> http://bunniesinneed.net/forbidden-foods-for-rats/feed/ 0 Food Allergies in Rats http://bunniesinneed.net/allergies-in-rats/ http://bunniesinneed.net/allergies-in-rats/#comments Wed, 15 Aug 2012 02:31:34 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1897 Although rats can have food allergies, it is not that common. Most skin irritations are due to mites or irritating bedding. It is important to know some of the signs and symptoms of  allergies.

They include but not limited to the following:

  • Itching
  • Inflammation
  • Lesions from scratching
  • Patchy hair loss
Reactions  may be immediate or delayed. In a delayed reaction, it occurs only after repeated exposure to the antigen (cause of the reaction).  It would also be classified as a hypersensitivity response.
Food intolerance can be from a lactose deficiency, causing gas build up, bloating, and diarrhea.
Other reactions can be from additives such as color dyes such as yellow dye number 5, MSG, and sulfates.
Some toxic food and plants can also cause reactions. Proteins found in processed food, fillers, and colorings may trigger skin allergies.
Having a history of the rat  along with what has been it’s diet is a good start. Examine your rat for any signs of dermatitis and/or ezema. rule out any parasites, infections, tumors, or other conditions.
Treatment
If a new food has been given, remove the food from the diet and see if the reactions subside. If not new food has been given, then try the process of elimination.  A modified version of an elimination diet recommended by Debbie Ducommun is listed here:

      Give a base diet of cooked brown rice, raw millet, and include 1 teaspoon of Nutri-Cal (purchased at your local Pet Store or through your Veterinarian). Give over 7 to 10 days. If improvement is seen then begin adding a food to this base diet. Keep a record of when each food is added and the response. If symptoms return following the addition of a particular food then you have identified the culprit food and can remove it from the diet.

Care

      • Assess skin daily for signs of improvement.
      • When beginning an elimination diet, keep a record of which foods have been removed or added, and the response.
      • Treat skin lesions, skin irritation, or lesions.
      • Keep nails clipped to prevent injury or chance of infection to skin from scratching.
      • If condition worsens see a veterinarian for further treatment modality.

]]> http://bunniesinneed.net/allergies-in-rats/feed/ 0 Fly Strike Hazards for Small Pets http://bunniesinneed.net/fly-strike-hazards-for-small-pets/ http://bunniesinneed.net/fly-strike-hazards-for-small-pets/#comments Wed, 15 Aug 2012 01:42:16 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1893 By Phyllis O’Beollain

Myiasis, or flystrike, is a condition typically seen in rabbits, guinea pigs and other small furry pets in the summer, but it can affect any animal at any time of the year.

“Blowflies” (shiny flies with blue or green iridescent bodies) are attracted to open wounds, heavily soiled fur or the droppings of small pets, either in the hutch or around the pet’s bottom. The fly lays its eggs in an open wound or badly soiled area. The larvae then hatch, eat the soiled area and then start to eat away at living tissue, causing shock, pain and often, death. For a long time I thought flystrike was something that only afflicted neglected/outdoor pets, but all it takes is a wet behind or a little cut or scrape in an otherwise scrupulously clean cage, and one fly.

To prevent flystrike:

  • Keep your pet clean and dry always, and check him over every day.
  • Clean out your pet’s habitat regularly (daily, in my opinion), removing droppings and ensuring good ventilation to the hutch (so that flies are not attracted to and then trapped in the hutch).
  • Reduce flies in the environment: just one fly can cause serious harm to your rabbit or other small pet. Fly traps and fly paper are safe ways to reduce the number of flies. Make sure screens are intact; close doors quickly.
  • Ask your veterinarian about clipping or shaving the wet or soiled hair. The most commonly affected animals tend to get soiled and matted coats around their tails. When animals become old, overweight, frail or ill, they cannot clean themselves properly. A bikini (binkini?) shave can go a long way towards preventing fly strike by keeping the area clean and dry.

My rabbit Cookie is not old, frail, ill or fat, but she does have that amazing fuzzy double coat, and she’s…sort of like the Oscar Madison of rabbits. She’ll put her feet in her food dish, drag her ears in her food, drip carrot juice all over her dewlap, etc. She once sat in Oreo’s dish of Key Lime Pie yogurt*. One yogurt-butt, one fly: I’m going to take Cookie in for a trim.

If your rabbit has been having problems with an intermittent wet or messy bottom, make a vet appointment now. While you and your vet are treating the cause of the problem, keep your pet as clean as possible. Frequent bathing is not a good idea as the moisture itself will attract flies. If you must bathe your pet’s rear, dry the area a thoroughly as possible.

Make sure your small pet’s diet contains plenty of hay and very limited sugars and carbohydrates. If your pet’s diet varies, keep a food diary to see if the messy episodes coincide with any specific foods. If so, discontinue those foods (yes, even if they are your pet’s favorites) and discuss this with your veterinarian.

What do you do if you find your pet has fly strike? Don’t panic. That is, by the way, the first thing I would do – panic – and that is NOT helpful to either you or your pet. Take the pet to the veterinarian immediately. After hours, get her to an emergency vet clinic. If the wounds are serious and the pet is in shock, fluids will likely be given and the animal kept under observation. Sometimes, sadly, euthanasia is the kindest option so do not let it happen to your pet.

 

From:  Examiner.com Fly strike hazard for small pets – Dayton small pets | Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/small-pets-in-dayton/fly-strike-hazard-for-small-pets#ixzz1Nh1zEcCe

]]> http://bunniesinneed.net/fly-strike-hazards-for-small-pets/feed/ 0 First Aid Trauma Kit for Small Pets http://bunniesinneed.net/first-aid-trauma-kit-for-small-pets/ http://bunniesinneed.net/first-aid-trauma-kit-for-small-pets/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 05:16:18 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1886

  • by Phyllis O’Beollain

    This is the stuff you hope you never need

    While it is not all that likely that your housepet is going to require the contents of such a kit as this, stuff does happen. It is also not inconceivable that you might come across an injured stray someday (this would be on either a Sunday, or any day just after your veterinarian has gone home).

    A pet first aid course, such as that offered by the American Red Cross, is ideal, but even common sense first aid can stop bleeding and relieve pain while you transport the pet to the veterinarian or emergency veterinarian clinic.

    Suggested items for a trauma kit include:

    • 3X3 gauze pads – useful for applying medications, dabbing blood from wounds, padding and bandaging.
    • SofKling stretch gauze wrap
    • 2-2″ ACE bandage or similar wrap
    • Waterproof bandaging tape, 1 “
    • Splinting material
    • Saline eye wash
    • Cornstarch
    • Hydrogen peroxide
    • Heating pad or hot water bottle
    • pen and paper

    Soft stretch gauze is used on feet and legs where not only wrapping, but padding, is needed; the ACE is used over the gauze to help keep the bandage in place. Care must be used to ensure that the wraps are not too tight/unevenly tight around the leg, especially in the hock joint area.

    One-inch, waterproof tape can be used for covering the outer stretch wrap on a leg bandage. A good tough tape is useful for areas the rabbit may choose to gnaw; if enough tape is applied, the animal can chew all they like without affecting the bandage itself (watch so they do not EAT the tape though).

    Splinting material is a nice addition to a trauma kit; foam-covered aluminum splints are readily available at drug stores and are easily cut to size even for the legs of small rodents. Padding between the limb and the splint will be necessary. Any bandage or splint should be checked several times daily to ensure that it is not too tight, nor rubbing.

    Saline eye wash is useful for flushing foreign objects out of an eye

    Cornstarch – used to prevent bleeding from a broken nail or a nail clipped too closely which does not stop b1eeding with simple pressure. Flour or other fine powders are often equally effective at stopping blood flow; pack the powder on the bleeding area and gently pack into place. Cornstarch is recommended over styptic powder as the latter, when applied to soft tissue is not painless. Do NOT use cornstarch on areas with significant/extensive bleeding!

    Hydrogen Peroxide is used for dabbing on and cleaning minor wounds.

    Heating pad or hot water bottle used for treating shock or hypothermia – wrap the bottle in a towel.

    Recording the time, date, and circumstances surrounding various signs and symptoms will provide your veterinarian with valuable information; recording the use of medication or other treatment is certainly recommended.

    Disclaimer: I’m not a veterinarian and neither are you! (unless of course, you actually are). Please remember that first aid is just that – initial treatment to stop the bleeding, stabilize the animal, etc – until you can get to the doctor ASAP.

     

     

    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/first-aid-trauma-kit-for-small-pets/feed/ 0     Easy Homemade Rat Treats http://bunniesinneed.net/easy-homemade-rat-treats/ http://bunniesinneed.net/easy-homemade-rat-treats/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 05:13:59 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1884

  • By Phyllis O’Beollain

    Making your own homemade pet treats ensures the freshest natural ingredients without too much sugar. DO NOT give rats chocolate, sugary candy, cookies, chips or other junk food. Dry, low sugar cereals such as toasted oat cereals, puffed rice or wheat cereals, or shredded wheat are good choices for treats, as are plain popcorn and wild bird seed.

    Rat Salad

    • 4 tablespoons frozen mixed carrots, cauliflower and peas
    • 1 tablespoon tofu
    • Fresh spinach

    Microwave the frozen veggies in a microwave safe bowl for 30 seconds on high. If not thawed, microwave for another 10 seconds, and continue to do so til they are warm but not soggy. Add tofu and mix, forming a sauce for the warm veggies. Serve over fresh spinach.

    Crunchy Rat Balls

    • Flour
    • Craisins or other dried fruit bits
    • Peanut Butter

    Mix all ingredients to consistency of cookie dough. Form half inch balls and bake at 350 degrees for 8-10 minutes, leave in oven til it cools to dry cookies so they will be crunchy.

    Crunchy Rat Balls with Seeds

    • 1 cup flour
    • 3/4 cup cornmeal
    • 1/2 cup wild bird seed
    • 1 teaspoon oil
    • 2 Tablespoons dried parsley
    • 3/4 cup vegetarian broth

    Preheat oven to 250 degrees; grease cookie sheets. Mix all ingredients with a pastry blender, and shape into half inch balls; place on cookie sheet. Bake 45 minutes, and leave in oven til it cools (for crunchiness).

     

    Taken from Examiner.com Easy, homemade rat treats – Dayton small pets | Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/small-pets-in-dayton/easy-homemade-rat-treats#ixzz1NWKkQMx2

    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/easy-homemade-rat-treats/feed/ 0     Diet Do’s and Don’ts for Rats http://bunniesinneed.net/diet-dos-and-donts/ http://bunniesinneed.net/diet-dos-and-donts/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 05:12:26 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1881

  • Nutrition is the basis for maintaining good health in your rat, and a good base diet that contains essential nutrients, vitamins and minerals, along with a variety of fruits, nuts, and vegetables will do just that.

    Rats are omnivorous requiring both plant and animal food sources in their diets (much like humans), and specially formulated diets help to meet those nutritional requirements.

     

    Types of Diets Not Generally Recommended

    Packaged mixed grain diets that can be purchased at your local Pet Store are generally not recommended since they often contain too high a corn or seed content, and can be nutritionally incomplete. These types of diets all too often have the rat picking out only the pieces that they prefer to eat, leaving food not eaten as well as an under nourished rat.

    If you intend to use this type of base for your rat’s diet try to stick with a mix that is higher in soy than corn and that contains essential fatty acids. Do check your rat’s bowl to be sure that food is actually being consumed. Do not top off dishes if it appears that there is a small amount of food left as it may be only seed shells. Doing so may result in starvation.

    Snacks and Treats

    Rats love treats. Supplementing the staple diet with healthy foods will be enjoyable and healthy for them.

    When feeding your rat give only what can be consumed in a 24 hour period, in that way you can be sure of maintaining freshness and be aware of how much your rat eats. Rats do like to hide their stash so you might want to investigate their favorite hang outs to make sure they are eating the amount you are placing in their dishes.

    Your rat likes to get treats as much as you like to give them. As much as we all want to stick with the healthiest of treats, most of us are guilty of giving them the occasional “unhealthy” snack. Moderation and common sense are the keys.

    The healthiest treats are the fruit and vegetables.

    Note: On the subject of fruit, there has been some discussion regarding oranges causing cancer in male rats. It is the d-limonene in orange rind and commercial orange juice that they are referring to. The actual meat of the orange is not a problem.

    In general rats may for the most part be offered many of the foods you eat; however, there are a few exceptions. Drinks that are carbonated or foods (in excess) that could cause gas should be avoided. Rats have a flap in the stomach that prevents them from being able to vomit up contents into the esophagus. For this reason rats are also not able to burp, so giving carbonated beverages could cause discomfort (besides being unhealthy) for your rat. Even though gassy foods do not necessarily make one burp it could still cause your rat to be uncomfortable. It is not unheard of for a rat to pass flatus.

    An important note to mention here is that since rats do not vomit, veterinarians (for most surgical procedures) do not require that you withhold food or water prior to surgery. An exception to this may be when surgery involves the gut or abdomen, and even then withholding food or water should be of short duration due to their rapid rate of metabolism.

    Water, Bottles, and Dishes

    Rats need fresh water available at all times. Sipper bottles will keep their water much cleaner than if having it in a bowl that can be stepped in, moved around, or dumped.

    Water bottles are available in different sizes. The 16oz. bottle is a good size if you have more than one rat. Some bottles have different ways of attaching to the outside of the cage, so it’s just a matter of checking out the brands that will fit your cage style and size.

    Look for those bottles that are hard plastic or glass rather than the softer ones, as they are easier to keep clean. You might also want to invest in a guard that goes between bottle and cage so as to protect the cap end of the bottle if your rat likes to chew.

    It is a good idea to check the water bottle for leaks and to change out the old water for fresh water on a daily basis. Occasionally, the small ball in the sipper portion may get stuck and not let water through, or the rubber seals do not seat well and allow the bottle to leak. Also when deciding where to place the water bottle in the cage, choose a place that is not over their food dish since water bottles do tend to drip and can lead to soggy, spoiled food.

    Providing your rat with two food dishes will help to keep their dry and moist foods separate. It’s a good idea to use dishes of stoneware or crock or those that can attach to the cage so your rat doesn’t shred the dish or end up dumping the food all over the cage floor.

    In summary, healthy nutrition and an adequate supply of fresh food and water on a daily basis is essential to a rat’s overall health and safety. Not providing your pet rat with adequate nutrition and water on a daily basis can result in starvation (as seen in the figure example below), illnesses, or even death.

    The above information was taken from ratguide.com/care with permission

    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/diet-dos-and-donts/feed/ 0     Coprophagy (Poop Eating) http://bunniesinneed.net/coprophagy-poop-eating/ http://bunniesinneed.net/coprophagy-poop-eating/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 05:10:52 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1879

  • Coprophagy is the eating of excrement and is a normal nutritional behavior for rats. It is essential for the maintenance of healthy gut flora and for the recovery of nutrients.

    Rats have a simple stomach as opposed to ruminants (which have compartmentalized stomachs) such as cows, goats, and sheep. Without the multiple digestive compartments to aid in breaking down food, essential nutrients are not digested and are passed in the feces.

    In a simple stomach digestive system the ingested food moves more rapidly than in the ruminant system. Microbial fermentation of the food occurs in the caecum, which is a pouch located at the beginning of the colon (also known as hind-gut fermentation). Cellulose (plant) fibers are not effectively broken down during this process.

    Eating of the feces allows the recovery of nutrients that were not utilized during the first pass through the digestive system.

    Rats produce two types of fecal pellets. One is a dark firm pellet and the other is soft. The soft feces is held within the anus and usually eaten directly from the anal orifice. It is covered with a mucus membrane that, once entering the stomach, slows down the digestive process of the feces and promotes fermentation. This allows a more effective breakdown of nutrients.

    Rats will regulate the amount of feces eaten according to their nutritional needs. Rats will eat between 0-11 percent of their own feces when fed a nutritionally complete diet. Thiamin and pantothenic acid deficiencies will cause a marked increase in coprophagy. Preventing rats from eating their feces can lead to deficiencies of vitamin K, complex B vitamins, and biotin and can cause other vitamin deficiencies to develop. Rats, when not permitted to ingest their fresh feces show a stunted growth rate. Even if allowed to eat only the dry feces the benefits of coprophagy are still not attained.

    References

    • Besselsen, D. (n.d.). Biology of Laboratory Rodents. Retrieved December 18, 2008, from http://www.uac.arizona.edu/VSC443/rodentbio/rodentbio.html.
    • Fajardo, G., & Hörnicke, H. (1989). Problems in estimating the extent of coprophagy in the rat. Br J Nutr, 62(3), 551-61. Retrieved December 18, 2008, from the Medline database.
    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/coprophagy-poop-eating/feed/ 0     Communicating with Rats http://bunniesinneed.net/communicating-with-rats/ http://bunniesinneed.net/communicating-with-rats/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 04:57:37 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1866

  • Rats communicate with each other through body language and squeaks. Research has shown that many squeaks are too high a pitch to be audible by humans. Recently, it has been discovered that rats actually laugh!

    See video clip of Dr. Jakk Panksepp, a neuroscientist at Bowing Green State University and his laughing rats: http://graphics8.nytimes.com/packages/video/science/rat.mov

     

    Because we cannot hear this, it is important to observe our rats to be able to understand what they are trying to tell us. We can only hear their squeaks when they are hurt, scared, or annoyed. The level of the squeak can can you to what degree.

     

    In order to understand our rats, we need to take the time to observe them. Rats will use its body position, posture, head and ear position, fur and tail to communicate. Most of which we human do as well (minus the tail thing)!!

     

     

    • Intense fear or pain will result in a long scream. A rat that is only annoyed will give a short squeak or a longer whiny squeak. This is especially common when one rat is picking on another or trying to steal food.
    • A rat that is uncertain or afraid will twitch his ears back and forth and shrink backward.
    • A curious rat will often tip his or her ears forward and either move its head in that direction or reach up and sniff the air.
    • Rats often push things away when they don’t want them, such as a piece of food or even when they don’t want to be petted. Other times, they may just turn away or leave.
    • Some rats wag their tails slowly when you pet them, as to show contentment.
    • Many times rats may swing their tails wildly when they are picked up and feel insecure. This is why, when holding rats, you must always support their feet.
    • If a rat rattles or flicks his tail back and forth, he is probably experiencing some sort of social distress or sees something that worries him.
    • Relaxed rats, especially rats that are being petted, will grind their teeth together to express contentment or happiness. This is called bruxing. Sometimes while a rat is bruxing, his or her eyes bulge in and out.
    • Rats mark their territory by leaving drops of urine where they have walked. This is more common in males, and can be reduced by having him neutered.
    • A rat that is feeling aggressive will puff out his fur and hunch his back. Do not handle a rat in this position, as he may bite. If he or she is threatening another rat, remove the victim immediately. Aggressive rats should only be picked up in a towel. Keep in mind, though, if a rat has no reason to feel aggressive and seems lethargic, puffed up fur can mean the rat is sick. Sometimes they also puff their fur when they’re cold.
    • Rats that want to be petted approach humans with their heads low.
    • Rats that are feeling playful will scamper around, sometimes in a circle, but often in a jerky, crazed manner.

     

    Observing how your rat tries to communicate with you is very important and help you to bond and understand what your rat wants. Rats are very intelligent. Take the time to learn from them!

     

    Parts of this article are taken from “Fat Rat Central”

    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/communicating-with-rats/feed/ 0     Choosing a Safe Cage for Your Pet Rats http://bunniesinneed.net/choosing-a-safe-cage-for-your-pet-rats/ http://bunniesinneed.net/choosing-a-safe-cage-for-your-pet-rats/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 04:55:00 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1862

  • By Phyllis O’Beollain

    Rats can never have too much room. As a minimum, they need two square feet of space per rat (along with shelves and/or hammocks for more climbing areas) but the more room they have to roam around and explore, the happier they will be.

    A cage with coated wires is best, one with horizontal bars that allow the rat to climb on the sides. The bars must be no more than a half inch apart, or else young or petite ratties will squeeze through. Small or young rats will need either a starter cage, or else a grownup cage with hardware cloth covering the bars until the young one grows bigger. A tall cage with ramps and platforms is great for providing enough room for multiple rats.

    Rats should not be kept in aquariums. Glass tanks provide very little air circulation which contributes to respiratory disease as the ammonia fumes from the rat urine build up inside the tank. Never ever use pine bedding! Glass tanks also prevent you from interacting with your rat through the bars and do not provide additional climbing areas for the rats.

    Beware of cages with ramps that the rats can fall off of. While rats are excellent climbers and great jumpers, they can still fall and break legs, backs and even necks. Suspending a hammock under the drop offs of balconies and ramps is highly recommended; these safety nets can save you and your rat much pain and anguish.

    Be aware that many ferret cages are marketed as being safe for rats, with rats pictured on the front of the packaging. These cages usually have high shelves and drop offs; if a rat should fall from a top ramp, he will plummet 4 feet or more, hitting every ladder on the way down. Cages such as this should never be purchased for rats as even the use of hammock safety nets will not eliminate the dangers.

    A safe cage will have shelving that extends from one end of the cage to the other (no sudden shelf drop-offs mid-cage), and a full platform underneath so that if the rat should fall, he will land on the landing just below; there are no 4-foot drop offs in these safe cages.

    Avoid cages with wire flooring as this can predispose your rat to ulcerative pododermatitis, or bumblefoot, an inflammation and infection of the bottoms of the rat’s feet; serious complications can result. If you need to cover wire floors, you can use linoleum type tiles or even ceramic kitchen floor tiling (both are easy to clean). Beware of cages with wire balconies or shelving – these are more difficult to modify, as whatever material you use to cover them needs to be affixed to the cage in some manner.

    Keep in mind that even in the largest of cages, your rats need at least an hour of out-of-cage time every day interacting with you – more time is better, and even necessary if you have only one rat. If you have only one rat, YOU are now the rat’s best friend and must make sure he does not get lonely. This is a good reason to adopt two rats instead of just one.

    SELECTING/SETTING UP YOUR CAGE

    Speaking personally, my favorite cage is the Critter Nation cage, by MidWest. Having said that, there are many wonderful “starter cages” available. Here are some basic guides as to what you should look for.

    Multi-level wire and plastic cages designed specifically for rats make the best enclosures. They are secure, and you can hang toys in them to help enrich your rat’s environment. They also provide good ventilation. The bars of the cage should be no more than 1/2 inch apart for young rats and 1 inch apart for adult rats. The cage bottom should be a solid pan, and not wire.

    The bars of the cage should be powder-coated wire to prevent corrosion when exposed to urine.

    Shelves for sitting should be made from solid plastic.

    A cage for two rats should measure at least 2 feet high by 2 feet deep by 2 feet wide – although the larger the cage, the better.

    Place your rat’s cage off the floor to limit drafts. Put the cage in a room that allows the rat’s some quiet time. The cage should be kept away from heaters and radiators, as well as air-conditioners. The room should provide indirect sunlight. (Keep the cage out of direct sun.)

    The best bedding for rats is pelleted recycled paper or aspen bedding designed for small animals. Rats enjoy using shredded paper towels for nesting.

    Rats also enjoy napping in hanging hammocks, hiding out in plastic “igloo houses,” and climbing up and down ramps and ladders. Decorate your rats’ home with interesting and colorful toys!

    Rats have teeth that continue to grow throughout their lifetimes, so don’t forget to put some wooden toys in the cage to gnaw upon!

    Taken from: Examiner.com Choosing a safe cage for your pet rats – Dayton small pets | Examiner.comhttp://www.examiner.com/small-pets-in-dayton/choosing-a-safe-cage-for-your-pet-rats#ixzz1NbKlXqyj

    • ]]>     http://bunniesinneed.net/choosing-a-safe-cage-for-your-pet-rats/feed/ 0     Caring for the Small Pet With Head Tilt http://bunniesinneed.net/caring-for-the-small-pet-with-head-tilt/ http://bunniesinneed.net/caring-for-the-small-pet-with-head-tilt/#comments Tue, 14 Aug 2012 04:51:04 +0000 Cynthia http://bunniesinneed.net/?p=1858

  • by Phyllis O’Beollain

     

     

    Regardless of the cause, if your rabbit or other small pet has head tilt, he or she is going to need special care – maybe for weeks or months or longer.

     

    Lack of balance

    Problems with the pet’s sensory perception are the cause of their lack of balance, inability to stand, circling and possible “rolling” (trying to gain their footing). This incoordination may necessitate a smaller habitat to prevent self-injury; a smaller cage or perhaps a box with higher sides. Pad any protrusions in the habitat (which cannot be removed) with blankets or towels to prevent injury. Put fake sheepskin (available at fabric stores) on the floor of the habitat to wick urine away from the pet. Rolled towels can be placed on the floor of the habitat so that he will be less likely to roll when he loses his balance. If he has no bonded pet friend, sometimes a small stuffed animal can be comforting.

    Your pet is already experiencing confusion as to the stability of the surface they are standing on; picking them up is going to exacerbate this. If you must pick your pet up, hold him securely against your body to help him feel more stable and secure.

     

    Safety

    If your pet has facial paralysis, the eyelids will likely droop or even be unable to close. The eyes will need to be protected with ointments that your veterinarian will prescribe. Remove litter that contains excessive dust; and switch to a pelleted paper litter, shredded newspaper, or whatever is appropriate for your pet. Trim your pet’s nails to prevent them from accidentally scratching themselves in the affected eye.

     

    Eating and drinking

    Many pets with head tilt will not be able to eat, or will need lots of encouragement to eat. Hand feed them fresh vegetables and greens and even a bit of fruit to tempt them to eat, even if they are rejecting their pellets at this point. Rabbits especially are going to need to get hay into their tummies; you may want to try them on alfalfa hay if they are rejecting timothy hay. My neurologically impaired bunny will often eat alfalfa hay while rejecting everything else, including treats; it then seems to jump start her appetite for other foods.

    Food dishes need to be shallow. Watch your pet to figure out the best height for optimum access to food. A very shallow bowl or small plate may work, but sometimes a pet will inadvertently push their food off the other side of the dish and then not be able to get to it easily. My Oreo now uses a food dish with one side cut down which the small teenager hand-threw for her; a spoon rest might work well for you if you have no small potters in the house.

    If your pet refuses food altogether, you may need to syringe feed him. This is especially critical with rabbits; should their gut stop moving (stasis) it could potentially be fatal. Your veterinarian or vet tech will show you the correct technique; improper syringe feeding can cause aspiration (food or fluids into the lungs) and resulting pneumonia. Your veterinarian may prescribe Critical Care, a nutrient-packed food supplement for herbivores which can be mixed with water for syringe feeding. Your veterinarian may also be able to prescribe medication to reduce dizziness and nausea in your pet. You will need to feed your pet as much as he will accept at frequent intervals during the day.

    You will need to monitor your pet’s water intake – he may not be able to use a water bottle, and his lack of coordination will make it more likely that his water bowl will get tipped over or soiled. Do NOT use a large or deep bowl, as the pet’s lack of head control makes it more likely that he will aspirate (choke) on his water; he will need a shallow, heavy bowl (or two – a bowl at each end of the habitat will encourage drinking).

     

    Rabbits and cecotrophs

    As you may know, rabbits have two types of droppings; the ones called cecotropes are re-ingested by the rabbit to derive the optimum nutrition from the food and improve the digestive process. These droppings generally look like a small mass of grapes. If your rabbit’s condition is such that they cannot reach the anal area and the cecotropes, you should collect them and place them in an area where the rabbit can reach them. It is important to offer them but please do not worry excessively if your rabbit rejects them.

     

    Hygiene

    If your pet is unable to move about much, it will be more prone to develop pressure sores. To minimize the chances of this, make sure your pet is on a soft surface that is covered with a material that wicks the urine away from the pet (fake fleece from the fabric store). Your pet may need to be turned from side to side multiple times a day – every two hours if that is possible.

    Urine and feces on the skin cause irritation, inflammation, pain, and can cause a secondary bacterial infection, so keep your pet’s personal areas clean and dry. Unscented baby wipes can work well for this. Your veterinarian may prescribe a soothing ointment to protect this area. Larger pets, such as rabbits, may benefit from diapers.

     

    Exercise and flexibility maintenance

    Your pet should be encouraged to exercise if /she is able; this will increase the appetite, help with digestion, maintain muscle tone, prevent joint stiffness and improve circulation. Even if your pet is not able to exercise, if you very gently flex and extend the limbs several times a day, as well as gently massage them, this is also very beneficial. In addition, some pet owners have reported definite improvements with the use of acupuncture and chiropractic treatments.

     

    Recovery

    Recovery from head tilt may never be complete; some neurological damage may be permanent (although this might only be a slight head tilt). If you are willing to take on the responsibility of caring for your pet’s special needs, most of these pets can live a happy life. Pets do not mourn for lost abilities or the changes in their lives. Pets live for the moment and adjust better than most people; generally it is the caregiver that has more of a problem with the aesthetics of the situation.

    Be patient. Some pets recover completely, some don’t. Pets who are permanently disabled are not necessarily unhappy. If your pet is eating and drinking, trying to groom, and moving about as best he can, he is showing signs he is recovering and enjoying life. If he has no appetite, is lethargic and depressed, and unresponsive to you, you should consult with your veterinarian to determine if the pet is in pain, what the long-term prognosis is, and what will be best for him.

     

    Continue reading on Examiner.com Caring for the small pet with head tilt – Dayton small pets | Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/small-pets-in-dayton/caring-for-the-small-pet-with-head-tilt#ixzz1NhCYIBUY

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